Where can I surf?

Our very own Marieke of Peeky Ponchos takes you again into the world of surfing. Enjoy the second edition of our mini series and get stoked like we are already.


Alright, so you want to go surfing. But how do you know what is the best spot?
Most important is that you know and acknowledge your real surf-level first.
Imagine the following. You go to an easy beach break with small choppy waves. All because you believe the other beach waves are too big for you. I promise, you could miss out on some great surf. Even worse. You go to a spot where it’s way too heavy and big for your level. You end up in serious troubles.
Both will break you in progressing your level.

How to choose between beach-breaks, rocky pointbreaks and sand-covered-reefs?

Discovering your own current level is best by starting observing other surfers at different breaks.

  • From the land to have a good overview. Check where they position themselves and take off.
  • From in the water, it will look totally different again. You also feel the water, the power or lack of power in the waves, currents, rips and how to orientate yourself compared to other surfers.

Be honest and try to remember how you were performing your last few sessions.

  • What were conditions like?
  • Was it almost high tide with fat crumbly mallow waves?
  • Or was it excactly low tide and hollow and fast waves? Or something in between?
  • Did you manage to catch a lot of waves or did you only “eat shit”?
  • Did you have your timing under control or was it just because out of luck you caught some waves?

I believe most visitor in our area are on a one or two week holiday. This means you are better off surfing a rather easy beach break. Maximum shoulder high waves, several peaks and enough for everyone. Nice, no?
 

What is my level of fitness?

Also an important thing is considering your fitness. You maybe catch a lot of waves and have a solid sure take off? But you do not surf that often? Please be honest and realize that you will be tired of paddling more than one minute. Also duck diving more than three times in a row is exhausting. Your body is not used to be in such gold water, and you forgot to take and hold your breath when you get eaten by the foam. So better to take it easy and not overestimate your abilities. Or if you go on a longer trip, you know you can give yourself some time to get fit again and then start to improve your level.
So probably you are not a pro now. So if you see a lot of surfers catching a lot of big beautiful, long peeling waves with spray’s coming over the top of the waves, you better just sit on the cliffs and watch(and learn;-)) or take pictures and offer them to them later:-D!

If you don’t see anybody in the water, don’t go surfing there!

If there are only a few people in the water, maybe also better don’t go in. The reasons can be too rocky, not good with that particular tide, or because of weird currents its not working or to dangerous.
It is also really good talking to some surfers around. Locals, lifeguards and surf instructors can give you more information about that spot.

ATTENTION!

Please note. There are no lifeguards from November till April at our beaches around. In case of an emergency, always call 112.
Enjoy and hang loose!!
Marieke

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